there were already 6 surfers out when i got there at 7am...  the sun was rising and so were the waves...  it was ruff and tumbley out there, but a few clean waves came thru now and then...

i had my shot at what i thought were some pretty big rideable waves, but each time i got thrown, pwned, and rolled...  i blame my surfer noobiness...

again a strong southern rip current dragging everything down the coast...  got out and did a few double-pier walks...  only to miss the sweet spot and have to get out again...

maybe it will clean up enuff to play again later today, if not, then definately tommorrow morning...

 


Comments




Leave a Reply