there were some 3-4ft crashers, maybe an occasional roller to be caught...

so u know how u can see the waves, and they look all big and fun, so u rush out there to catch em as fast as u can...  well what u dont see is the strong undercurrent trying to drag u south at about 5ft per second... 

we tried our bestest for a while...  i messed with a new surfboard and managed to lose a fin...  by the time i was done with that, i had no energy left to play on the body-board...  there's always tommorrow...

 


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