there were 4-6ft waves to be had...  out past the piers and near the buoys...  was tuff to swin out there, was shallow enuff to stand at parts, but the current was dragging everything south pretty fast...  caught a few waves on the surf-board, but mostly just tired myself out, and froze...

had to get out and walk back up the beach after every ride or two...  thru the cold wind, in a black wetsuit, like all the other penguins waddling up the beach...  at least 30 surfers were out... 

 


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