it was pretty sloppy out there...  i assume it was like that most of the day, i arrived a little after noon...  but as the wind shifted into the SW it cleaned up for about an hour where there were some nice 5-7 foot curls to be had...

i started on an inflateable little body-board like thingy when it was sloppy and caught a few fun waves...  then swapped for a short-board for the rest of the day...  only caught a few real good waves, fell alot, and made a lot of failed attempts...  i'll get better eventually...

not too cold, or i'm just whack, cause i was the only surfer out of 15-20 without a wetsuit on...

hope to see more wave action in the days to come...

 


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