first time i put the wetsuit on before arriving at the beach, was around 47F air temp at 7am...  the swell was supposed to build overnight and be strongest around 3-6am...  but even though i got there early and prepared, the waves were shrinking too fast, and i left disappointed...
 
 
i got there early, but the waves were already dying out...
 
 
arrived at the beach early again...  got all geared up and hurried out...  caught some pretty large rides out there past the buoys...  had some pretty nice falls as well, but i bounced back up... 

it was a nice change to see big scary sets of waves forming up...  i played till it got mushy and my body quit on me...
 
 
caught pretty frequent waves from 8am-2pm...  not much competition out there on christmas day...  i had a great time with friends on different boards, and we all got what we wanted for the holidays, some waves to play on...
 
 
got out there early around 8am and sat a long time just watching...  after a while the waves began to pick up and look surfable...  i watched another guy swim out pretty far, so decided i would try too... 

not much success for the first hour or so...  lots of waves crumbled and left me behind...  managed to score only a handful of decent rides over the next three or so hours...

a couple more surfers showed up as the day went on, but not that many clean lines out there, and not many people standing up...  a couple surfers did well on the shore breaks, but they were pretty short rides...
 
 
it looked mushy but forceful when i arrived at 9am to a very low tide...  by the time i suited up and was ready to hop in, some larger sets were beginning to roll in out past the buoys... 

was a heck of a time getting out there past the southern rip current, had to get out and walk up the beach so many times...  at one point, i got my leash cord wrapped around a crab pot, and ended up down past the south pier by the time i got it untangled...

managed to score some massive waves, not always successfully, but the effort was there...  i landed most rides, but after the landing i had a few really nice wipe outs...  as the day went on i managed to do a bit better, or the waves got better, hard to tell...  lots of fun, was a good challenge...
 
 
finally mixed up some surfboard goop and repaired many dings and cracks in 2 or my boards...  removed all the duct tape that was about as fashionable and waterproof as a band aid on a baby's diaper...

got to do some surfing late in the day as the sun was setting...  mega slop fest out there, but a few big peaks here and there...  caught a few fun rides, was a good warm up, and shakedown of the recently fixed boards... 

it never really felt that cold out in the water, even though the sun hid behind the clouds all day...  a few other surfers showed up but the waves were still not that cooperative...  some body-boarder in a new wetsuit thought she was hot stuff, so i ran her over with my surfboard...  at least i did in my mind...
 
 
showed up around 3pm and saw the waves getting bigger every minute...  were a few surfer catching shore breaks, while i caught some small half rides further out...  i got tired and lost interest in paddling against the strong southern current...  so i hung out behind the pier with everyone else...

more surfers showed up and it got a little crowded, but then the waves spread out and so did the surfers...  some pretty fun rides, and some wasted effort paddling, but overall it was worth getting a little chilly over...
 
 
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me and 2 other surfers in wetsuits were catching short clean rides out by the buoys in a very low tide...  nice long-boarding session but it didn't last long...  not overly cold out there, but the wind chill did pick up a bit at the end...