it was pretty sloppy out there...  i assume it was like that most of the day, i arrived a little after noon...  but as the wind shifted into the SW it cleaned up for about an hour where there were some nice 5-7 foot curls to be had...

i started on an inflateable little body-board like thingy when it was sloppy and caught a few fun waves...  then swapped for a short-board for the rest of the day...  only caught a few real good waves, fell alot, and made a lot of failed attempts...  i'll get better eventually...

not too cold, or i'm just whack, cause i was the only surfer out of 15-20 without a wetsuit on...

hope to see more wave action in the days to come...

 
 

strong winds and a massive swell are moving towards us...  definately take a trip to the beach to take a look... 

calling for 4-6 foot waves, up to 8-10 foot at times...  probably gonna be some sloppy sets out there sunday till monday, then some smaller clean leftovers tuesday and wednesday...

hope to see you out there...  its gonna be cold...

 
 

i waited all day long for the winds to shift and the surf to build, and it paid off...  a couple sets of 4-5ft waves came rolling thru...  caught a few good rides before the sea calmed down...  saw 4 other surfers out, was cold...

 
 

there were 4-6ft waves to be had...  out past the piers and near the buoys...  was tuff to swin out there, was shallow enuff to stand at parts, but the current was dragging everything south pretty fast...  caught a few waves on the surf-board, but mostly just tired myself out, and froze...

had to get out and walk back up the beach after every ride or two...  thru the cold wind, in a black wetsuit, like all the other penguins waddling up the beach...  at least 30 surfers were out... 

 
 

consistent 3-4ft waves at the south pier again...  was warm, had the beach to ourselves, nice and sunny...  where is everyone..?

got to practice more surf-boarding...  stayed out at the beach all day pretty much...  the waves kept coming so we kept surfing...

 
 

the waves were small at first, but built as the day went on...  started off body-boarding, then when the waves looked large enuff, i switched to the surf-board...  got a lot of good practice in on some small 3-4ft waves for a few hours...  had a great time...